Raise the bar

What do jamun, Himalayan pink salt, black sesame, rosemary, mango and chilli have in common? Well that might sound like a googly considering the diverse nature of the ingredients, but all these are used in chocolates made in India.

Bindu Gopal Rao

What do jamun, Himalayan pink salt, black sesame, rosemary, mango and chilli have in common? Well that might sound like a googly considering the diverse nature of the ingredients, but all these are used in chocolates made in India.

The very basic

Simply speaking, artisan means made with a skill developed and cultivated slowly over time. The focus here is on single origin chocolates that are harvested in one region. The cacao beans take on the characteristics of the environment it grows in. Later, ingredients such as fruits, nuts, spices and caramels are added. The demand for fine chocolates has got many youngsters interested in the business and are doing experiments.

“We use very rudimentary equipment that requires a lot of attention to detail from the chocolate maker to craft a gourmet product with layers of nuance. In contrast to industrial chocolate, we always take the slow, and wherever possible, manual route. Our chocolate is conched slowly over granite rather than high-speed stainless steel. Our chefs temper their chocolate by hand rather than relying on machines, a tough task in a tropical South Indian climate,” says David Belo, managing director & executive chef, Earth Loaf Artisan Chocolate, Mysore.

Artisan chocolates are more nuanced in flavour, made with real ingredients and are a delight to the palate. Most of them are made in small batches without any artificial preservatives or chemicals. For those who say Indian chocolates can never compete with international chocolates, Ashish Bawa, business head of Vivanda Gourmet, is making India-inspired chocolate confections with fine quality ingredients and packing them in stunning boxes with intricate designs. That is why they have a chocolate manufacturing set up and a packing team under one roof.

Terroir tales

India has been christened “international chocolate origin of the year” for chocolate makers and connoisseurs alike. The tag would give a push to new terroir-induced flavours, which are in abundance in India, thanks to its myriad of micro climates. So, right form sourcing to the add-ons, efforts are afoot to source everything indigenously. Like Pondicherry-based Mason & Co, which makes dark chocolate from Indian origin organic cacao beans. The workforce here is a team of local village women trained in the art of chocolate making. They say each of their 12 flavours is free from chemical, preservatives and emulsifiers as also dairy and soy free. Most of their chocolate making processes like sorting, winnowing, tempering and packaging are also done by hand.

Artisan products tend to be less processed without chemicals and preservatives and are, therefore, healthier. The Indian consumer is aware of this benefit and is now looking for alternatives, even when it is about indulgences like chocolate. Many chefs are now travelling the world to educate themselves and are coming back with an intention to bring the Indian market to that level. Chocolate tasting and appreciation sessions are being well received too.

Uma Raju, co-founder of Chocolate Philosophy, says there is a lot of competition with so many players around. What’s heartening for her is that these people are actually doing it because of their passion for chocolates.

And the challenges…

The biggest challenge for chocolate makers in India is the climate. Chocolate melts at 27 degrees and needs to reach the consumers in a good condition.  As such, it is ensured that all supplies are stored in refrigeration facilities below 27 degrees.

Toshin Shetty, patissier & founder of Toshin Patisserie, says sourcing beans and ingredients is another major challenge. “As all our chocolates are bespoke, each recipe requires a different kind of chocolate to be sourced from different regions of the world. Ensuring a constant sustainable supply while keeping up with production demand is a continuous struggle. The most recent challenge has been that of creating sugar-free chocolates for the health-conscious customers. I am on the constant look out for alternates to sugar without compromising on the taste.” Taste is what will set them apart and our desi chocolate makers have taken up the challenge well.